Ethiopia 2

Salem from Ethiopia! So far, I’ve travelled from Addis, to Lake Tana where you can sail for 2 1/2 hours and still not travel the lake end to end, through the flood plains, to the “roof of Africa” - the heights of the Simien Mountains, back down to Axum, centre of the ancient Axumite Kingdom, and up again through the Adua Mountains, where the Italians were defeated. 

I’ve have at least three reasons I’m glad to be here. First, the people. It’s fair to say Ethiopians are warm and welcoming, with ready smiles. If you stop in a café, someone will talk to you, if you look like you have a question, someone will step forward to help. Their food is unique and delicious. Their history stretches back in a recorded, unbroken line to before biblical times. (Their alphabet comes from the ancient language, “Ge’ez”.) They defeated the Italians in the Adua Mountains and were never colonized by a European power. Their churches, old and new, mould the rhythm of the days and reflect ancient Christian roots. The various tribes that together to form Ethiopia each have their distinct language, architecture, dress, dance and traditions, in fascinating variety for the visitor. 

Second, nature. Nature has been exceedingly generous with Ethiopia. We Canadians are accustomed to vast vistas but Ethiopia has given me a different take on vast. Broad deep valleys are dwarfed by sheer stone escarpment, terraced-farm mountain sides, and treed slopes. I’ve threaded my way by foot on the rim of an escarpment to meet a troupe of Gelada monkeys. Later, I rode a bus on a two lane dirt road carved on the edge of air, with a sheer drop of miles. We’ve driven for days, literally, on roads of repeated blind switchbacks. It’s the Grand Canyon and Monument Valley but greener, the Alps without snow, the Rockies with a road to the top. There is an abundance of exotic, gorgeous birds. A large variety of trees, many of them flowering, lend their beauty to the land. The sky is blue, the air clean. Today, day 13 for me, I saw the first clouds of my trip. Mere puffs in the sky. (Rainy season would be a little different.)

Third, perspective. You can’t help but gain perspective when you see people living in such different conditions from your own. Seventy-some per cent of Ethiopia’s population farm; the state owns all the land but farmers have the right to its fruits, and can even rent it to others if they are unable to work their traditional holdings. This system is designed to prevent small land holdings from disappearing. But theirs is back breaking work, done mostly with tools and animals, not machines. Ethiopia is a country of walking (and running) people. (See *Olympics.) They walk enormous distances over the mountains, on the roads and cross country, to and from school, work, farms, market towns, funerals, and water sources. Miles and miles each day. Here, you see the very poor; women, men and children begging, children selling gum, fossils, and tissues. Wearing rags. Literally wanting enough to keep body and soul together. Education is free here but it is expensive for poor families to support their children and so the children go out to work. Or, if girls, are married off when far too young. Community ties are strong - which can be both a curse and a blessing, but is a distinct contrast to our way of life. 

Overall, my trip to Ethiopia has given me the opportunity to experience the kindness of strangers, appreciate the gifts of nature, and reflect on the life I live.