Fort Kochi is the actual name of the town we’re in, not Kochi proper. This is a lovely seaside town, well used to tourists with many shops and good restaurants. It has gorgeous, well-preserved colonial buildings and a palace on a much smaller scale than those of the North. There is a European feel, with a definite Indian twist. The pace has slowed considerably - and it’s just too hot and humid to keep moving as we were.
There is an ancient Jewish community here, split into two sects - the black and the white. The black is thought to date back to the time of King Solomon - there is evidence that trade was going on then and that they intermarried with the locals; the white dates back to the Middle Ages. Those who landed here found a safe and profitable home where they were honoured and respected. But the colour divide proved to be a fatal flaw and the communities are now almost extinct. The young people moved to Israel and America until there was no one for those left behind to marry. The effort to integrate the two communities proved to be too little, too late.
Vasco de Gama died here and his tomb is here, though now it’s empty since his son took his remains home. There are Christian churches. And, of course, Hindu temples and mosques as well. The province of Kerela has a 97% literacy rate and here girls outnumber boys by a slight margin.
Tonight we attended a Kathakali dance performance and it was fascinating. We watched the dancers apply their makeup first, then had a tutorial on the meaning of various movements and facial expressions, then the dance itself. I’ll post pictures. The south of India may be the cultural portion of the trip.
Tomorrow is a day of travel as we go to Kalpetta.
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